jorgemac
Forum Replies Created
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For the E7 chord you do need to add a finger to the G string 1st fret. What I described in the last post is a Em7 chord which can be used here also.
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Just thought of this. The way I make my E7 chord shape from Dm to E7 is
1st string E – open
B string 3rd fret D note’- you don’t need to move this finger from it’s Dm fingering, I make my Dm with the pinky on this string/fret and just leave it right there for the E7 chord.
Open G string- G
2nd fret D string -E
Basically just those 4 strings make up this fingering of the E7 chord.
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Pete, just read your post regarding getting hooked on guitar repairs. just a warning for you.
I have a 5 foot tall, 15 drawer, Costco tool chest that has almost nothing but but guitar stuff in it, Tools, pickups, guitar necks and electric bodies, fret wire, guitar tuners, bone nuts, saddles acoustic and electric bridges, fret wire and tools to install them, abalone marker dots , neck head plates of assorted woods, pick guards. Plus 4 smaller tool boxes with more guitar tools. Of course it has taken me 30 years to accumulate this stuff and I just hope all of it finds a decent home when I’ve turned into dust in the wind…
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Good luck with your mom.
I moved back from Hawaii to spend 3 enjoyable years with my mother before she left us at 95 years old. I wouldn’t change a thing of those last years, much laughter, love and simply enjoying each other.
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So Cool, You will be a complete guitar junky soon. There is no cure for it…
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Hey Pete, the thing about the chord shapes is that they can be walked up and down the neck.
Am – 3rd fret is Bm, 5th fret is c#m, 6th fret Dm, etc
D shape walk down 2 fret to E, 1 more fret F, 2 more frets is G, etc.
The same with the A chord shape and the E chord shape and the C7 shape.
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Good point DSL, The blunter sides of the pick do offer a different tone. Like you I vary my Dunlop Primetone picks/1.5 to different pick sides and angles striking the strings. I’m slowly getting away from picks and using thumb picks and finger picking more and more As i started TAC by picking most of the exercises with a pick and switching to finger style after a few times through the daily lesson. Hit lesson 300 today, really enjoying the lessons and the community.
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I agree as I pretty much don’t need to look at a string when forming chords or picking single notes. I actually close my eyes a lot on familiar chord changes. But that is all a natural progression over the years of just playing so much. Just like mature wine it takes time to achieve good results. Keep the chord changes simple and rotate between the 3 major chords in each key every day for a couple of minutes before practice.
we are currently working in the key of E this week and your 3 chords you can practice any time are E, A, and B7. spend a couple of minutes before each practice just becoming familiar with the finger positions for those 3 chords.. Practice going from E the A and E to B7.
B7 is a beautiful sounding chord but it took me forever to learn how to finger it comfortably.
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On cheaper instruments the 1st fret on the guitar body seems to be the one that causes most of the trouble. A good 24″ straight edge is a good way to check for overall fret issues if you have the neck adjustments perfectly straight. This gives you an over idea of where problems can exist. Then your fret rocker can zero in on which frets are causing the most problems.
Like you said if you raise the bridge saddle it can overcome those issues but it is harder to fret. For every 16th of an inch that you raise the saddle will raise the string action, at the 12th fret a 32nd of an inch or which ever amount you raise the saddle height equals half of that height higher at the 12th fret.
Also if the frets weren’t dressed properly to begin with you can have one part of the fret too high and all of the other string positions on that fret perfect.
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A cheap guitar is the one to practice on. The most important tool for checking which fret is actually too high is called a Fret Rocker. It is small straightedge that you use to check each fret or a series of frets. It is about $30 and was on of the 1st tools that I bought when I first got the guitar repair bug and It was about $15 way back when.
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That is a strange place to have 1 high fret.
Just tweak your truss rod a smigen more to make sure that is the problem. If that cures the problem, then put your truss rod back where you had it and take a triangle file and slowly remove just a touch of that fret. you have to be careful with inexpensive guitar neck adjustments . you take too much off of the fret and the 16th fret will start buzzing and you will end up chasing the problem all the way to the last fret on the fret board.
You can buy cheaper files on amazon or go to the Guitar Nomad site and you can get a cheaper set. Again the Amazon feature of free shipping might be where you want to buy the files.
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thanks Bill.
I have a wall chart, that I reference daily, called “Guitar Charts” by Timita, that I picked up from Amazon
it has
Complete Fret board.
Guitar chords in all major keys, 30 charts for each chord.
11 Scales broken down on separate fret boards.
Chord diagrams in each key
Triads including 1st and 2nd inversions for major and minor chords, plus fretboard positions
Circle of 4th and 5th
Chord notes for major, minor, dominant, sus, diminished and augmented chords.
2 foot by 4 foot. by Timita
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Very nice, great song choice.
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Hey Pete, I know i can seem over enthusiastic at times and can’t seem to explain what I’m trying explain in a way that is easily understood. Some day maybe I’ll be able to organize my ideas better so they make sense. i am having so much fun now that i should have retired a long time ago…
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Unless you are using the new MAC with AI you have tackled typing messages out on your computer. That has to feel fantastic. Good luck in your recover and love the way you are tackling this curve ball. I forget who said it 1st but “never say never”.